This elegant arête forms the right hand edge of Mam Tor Gully (I) and runs in a straight line for 3 pitches up to the summit’s trig point. Of all the routes on the face, the best has got to be Blue John Rib (III). Blue John Rib is the obvious arete on the left The approach to the south face of Mam Tor. But don’t let this put you off because when the conditions are right the climbing on Mam Tor is very special indeed! Climbers have to rely instead upon frozen turf and mud, with the help of the occasional gritstone crack for protection. Sadly, shale seems immune to the effects of the cold and simply shatters on contact with ice axe and crampons. Binding the various layers together is impossible in even the coldest of winters. Features from previous years change and in some case disappear altogether.
It wasn’t for the want of trying - there's evidence of more than 2 metres of tarmac and gravel being used to patch up some of the cracks! For the winter climber, this means that you’re unlikely to climb the same route twice. Mam Tor’s nickname - “Shivering Mountain” - tells you all that you need to know about the challenges faced by those who climb it! Formed from layers of shale, mud and gritstone, the face is always changing, slipping steadily towards the remains of the A625 below.
With a cold snap and a little bit of luck, it’s sometimes possible to climb on all three in a day. For my money, this means - Mam Tor, Kinder Downfall and Back Tor.
What could be better than climbing a line or two and still being back in time for breakfast? Whilst there’s always the chance to nab a “once in a lifetime” route, it's a much safer bet to focus upon those destinations which come quickly into condition. But what really gives me a thrill is getting stuck into winter routes back home in my corner of the Peak District. Don’t get me wrong, I’m happy to make the short trip to Snowdonia or the Lakes, even the Scottish Highlands are well within reach. I think there’s few better things in life than having a winter climb or two on your doorstep.
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